A Culinary Journey Through Time: Renga-tei of Ginza

We’ve always had a fondness for exploring the rich culinary landscapes of Japan, and our journeys frequently lead us to the cozy, inviting tonkatsu restaurants scattered across the country. On one such occasion, while watching a captivating video by NHK World that delved into the origins of Youshoku—Japan’s unique interpretation of Western-style cuisine—our interest was piqued by a segment featuring Renga-tei, a restaurant renowned for pioneering this fascinating culinary blend.

The highlight that caught our eye was their signature dish: a large, thin piece of tonkatsu that was exceptionally crispy. The visuals of that perfect, golden-brown crust were irresistible, and we instantly knew that Renga-tei was a must-visit on our next culinary adventure. As we planned our trip, the anticipation of tasting that iconic tonkatsu, a dish celebrated for its perfect blend of crunch and tenderness, filled us with excitement. Our shared experiences at these restaurants have not only satisfied our taste buds but also deepened our appreciation for Japan’s culinary artistry.

Renga-tei in Ginza is a culinary institution that has stood the test of time, charmingly located on the gas-lit Ginza-dori. Since its inception in 1895, Renga-tei has been a beacon of traditional fare, attracting a swarm of customers, especially at lunchtime, with its legacy and enticing aromas. The name ‘Renga-tei’, translating to ‘brick restaurant’, harks back to a time when its brown brick edifice was a marvel in the landscape of Tokyo.

Renga-tei’s significance in the culinary world is unparalleled. As one of Japan’s oldest Western-style restaurants still in operation, it has been instrumental in shaping the yoshoku cuisine, a unique fusion of Western dishes with a Japanese twist. The menu at Renga-tei is a testament to this culinary meld, featuring classics like pork cutlets and hayashi rice, a savory delight of beef in demi-glace sauce with rice.

The restaurant’s fame, however, isn’t just confined to its yoshoku offerings. It is renowned as the birthplace of the beloved omurice – a dish of fried rice wrapped in an egg omelette. Renga-tei’s original take on omurice is distinct; here, the beaten eggs are skillfully mixed into the rice before being fried, creating a unique and flavorful experience.

The phenomenon of national cuisines being hybrids of native and imported ingredients is epitomized by Renga-tei. This establishment reflects the intricate dance of globalization and culinary innovation, where traditional Japanese dishes coexist with influences from across the globe, embodying a melting pot of tastes and traditions. This is evident in the way Renga-tei has pioneered in popularizing dishes like tonkatsu and omurice, which, despite their foreign origins, have become staples in Japanese households.

The story of Renga-tei and its signature dish, tonkatsu, is a fascinating one. Established initially as a French restaurant, it was under the stewardship of its second-generation proprietor, Motojiro Kida, that tonkatsu – a thick pork cutlet served with Worcester sauce, rice, and shredded cabbage – was born. Inspired by the Italian cotoletta, this dish was a bold venture in an era when Western food was a novelty in Japan. Despite initial hesitance towards meat due to cultural and religious practices, the Japanese populace gradually embraced it, particularly after the Meiji Revolution, when meat-eating became associated with strength and vitality.

Motojiro Kida’s ingenuity didn’t stop at the creation of tonkatsu. He adapted the dish to local tastes and available resources, garnishing the pork cutlets with shredded cabbage instead of cooked vegetables due to ease of preparation and a labor shortage in Tokyo. Furthermore, he replaced the customary bread with rice, catering to the local palate and setting a standard that persists to this day.

Renga-tei’s menu has evolved over the years, with dishes like hayashi rice and omu-rice remaining perennial favorites. The hayashi rice, a harmonious blend of beef in a rich, slightly sweet sauce, and the omu-rice, a comforting fusion of fried rice and egg omelette served with tomato ketchup, are culinary masterpieces that tell stories of Japan’s history and cultural assimilation.

Today, Renga-tei not only continues to serve these timeless yoshoku dishes but also complements them with a selection of beverages like Guinness Stout and a variety of wines. The ambiance of the restaurant, with its charmingly dowdy decor and jazz soundtrack, adds to the nostalgic experience, transporting diners back to the days of old Tokyo.

In conclusion, a visit to Renga-tei is not merely a dining experience; it’s a journey through the culinary history of Japan, a testament to the evolution of its cuisine, and an opportunity to savor dishes that have stood the test of time and continue to delight palates to this day.